So, here we have yet another Modified car thread by me....
Well I picked the new car up yesterday - a 1992 Honda Civic VTi-SiR which I plan to prep for the Classic Touring Car Championship in the Pre93's, up to 1600cc Class
Its the imported Civic VTi which means it makes 168bhp std rather than the 158 from a UK car, has the LSD gearbox, no suroof, its also bee played with a little already and has, a full exhaust inc 4 branch manifold, induction kit, remapped ECU, uprated fuel rail, FPR, Integra Inlet manifold, throttle body and cams, short shift, 282mm brakes with twin pot calipers and lowering springs.
Plans for the car are to get it eligible for the Championship mentioned above, that means I need the following and will probably buy them in this order:
Competition Clutch
Rollcage (Inc stripping the car)
Seat
Harness
Ignition cut off
Fire Extinguisher
Toyo 888 Tyres
Coilovers
Better front Brake pads
As an addition to things for the car I also need:
An ARDS test to get a full race license
A tow ball on the back of the BMW
I already have a pukka race suit, and helmet
That little lot should get me up and racing, with anything else that follows being an evolution of the car
The car itself wasn’t in as good condition as I initially thought, but, I did get it pretty cheap, and I would be worried about racing a minter on a track through fear of it getting damaged - so some tatty patches make it more livable with if anything should happen. The main thing is its mechanically good, and the chassis is good
Watch this space, as I start modding this car up and getting it ready - hopefully it will remain road legal all the way through, as regs for the championship say lights must work etc which is the main thing that would mean it couldn’t be used on the road...
nice! if you buy any chance want to sell it (or then engine) then i would gladly take it off your hands!
Get in the chewy.
Look forward to seeing how this goes.
Very nice stuy
And good luck with it all, i think you will do just great mate
yeah, good luck with it.
will be interesting to see how it goes
nice seen that u were getting it on mnr, will have to let us no when ya racing it
Been busy with this since I picked it up, and over the weekend it went through a weigh loss program
All the back has now been stripped (B pillar back) - which has made it considerably louder inside!
Ive ordered a 6 point FIA harness, Coilovers, OMP Cage and I have my eye on a seat
Im also waiting on a price back from the states on a clutch kit, which consists of a 6 prong paddle plate, uprated cover, release bearing, pivot bearing, and ali flywheel!
Ill try and get some interior pics tonight
Looks and sounds like a nice project fella
If you need any bits gives us a bell
Competition Clutch
Rollcage (Inc stripping the car)
Seat
Harness
Ignition cut off
Fire Extinguisher
Toyo 888 Tyres
Coilovers
Better front Brake pads
Things in bold are the items Ive not had a price on yet, all the others, I have, but if you want to quote on them, and see if you can beat the prices I already have...
Well I am dealer for cobra seats
have a look at what seats you like/want and let me know and I will get you a price
the rest i cant get YET!
p.s what coilovers u get as Iam a dealer for gaz if your interetsed
Im just trying to stay on a budget to get the car saorted at the moment - the seats dont need to be FIA, so even out of date seats are considered. Im not very wide, so I dont need a big seat, but it will need 5 harness holes, and to be side mounted.
Coilovers Im ordering are rebranded Leda from the US
I will have alook in the catalouge for you
and lead are good, i use them on the sapp, although iam selling them soon in favour of custom rally spec gaz suspension.
Well, I think I have sussed the exhaust noise problem with the car
Quietens the exhaust right down, and its as free flowing as a regular straight through box
Just need to get the damn Americans to get back to me with a shipping price
good work mate what next then
OOO carbon
Nice sticker aswell stu
whats next
Well, I have the following on order now:
6 Prong paddle clutch with Ali Flywheel
Twin Loop back box (To try and get the noise down)
OMP Cage
6 Point Harness
Coilovers
Ive also got a seat coming from an Impreza rally car.
As soon as the cage arrives, Ill strip the rest of the car, fit the seat and harness, in the mean time, Ill get the clutch kit, coilovers and exhaust fitted.
That really just leaves the Extinguisher and cut off as essentials, but Ill also be looking in to new, adjustable suspension arms, and some better brake pads for race use
coming along very quickly.
me likes it
iv heard a lot of good things about the twin loop systems, a few lads on the civic forums have fitted them and theyv said they are a lot quieter than Spoon N1 exhausts n stuff.
nice bit of carbon there as well lol.
New Clutch and flywheel arrived yesterday
While the box is off, Im also looking at a higher ratio final drive. The new Integra Type R uses a 4.7, but Im maybe trying to get something even higher so I can shorten all the gears so they are better suited to track use. If the Box is coming off for the clutch, may as well burst it open and swap the final drive at the same time if I can find something suitable
Just found this:
Its a 4.928 - which may well suit my needs - just waiting on a price inc the shipping
ooo getting a bit technical for me, but looks very shiney
Looks like its starting to really come together mate
good stuff!
Ive just found another final drive - a 4.785, so Im just debating which one to actually fit.
The currecnt ratios are as follows:
(All based on 8250rpm max and 195/55/15 tyres)
1st Gear 3.23:1 40.74MPH
2nd Gear 2.105:1 62.52MPH
3rd Gear 1.458:1 90.26MPH
4th Gear 1.107:1 118.88MPH
5th Gear 0.848:1 155.18MPH
Final Drive 4.4
The 4.785 offers:
1st Gear 3.23:1 37.46MPH
2nd Gear 2.105:1 57.49MPH
3rd Gear 1.458:1 83MPH
4th Gear 1.107:1 109.31MPH
5th Gear 0.848:1 142.7MPH
Final Drive 4.785
The 4.928 offers:
1st Gear 3.23:1 36.16MPH
2nd Gear 2.105:1 55.48MPH
3rd Gear 1.458:1 80.1MPH
4th Gear 1.107:1 105.5MPH
5th Gear 0.848:1 137.72MPH
Final Drive 4.928
Shortening your gearing, in effect increases the torque per gear, which gives accelaration. The car is never going to max out the std gears on a track (a doubt it even max out on a private runway), so I may as well trade some of the top speed off for acceleration, question is, how much to trade off, ie, go for the 4.785 or the 4.928.
The 4.928 will give greater acceleration, but will it ever max out and Ill be sitting on a limiter, or over revving the car for too long on the straights of some circuits
depends on the circuit surely stu...id be tempted to go with the 4.928 and give it a good thrashing on a open circuit...
surely its not that much hassle to have both 4.785 and a 4.928 set up in different boxes ready to go...and just switch them out as and when the circuit dictates..
the acceleration is what you want really as once your in front you can defend your line/position....
as for worrying about sitting on a limiter or over reving he engine...its a honda civic..they are bulletproof!
just mho!
TBH Im swaying to the 4.928, though once its in, it staying in!
The boxes are expensive - as are the final drives,(Mine is a very rare LSD one) and its a ball ache to get the box out. You ideally need to lower the front subframe to get it out which helps, but its by no means easy. Its also a very heavy box, and the reason for changing the final drive now is because Im fitting the clutch at the same time.
Price wise they are the same, and both will be much better than std - I guess I just want to make the most of what I spend on the final drive.
i see your logic..whats the worst that could happen..put it in and give the car a good thrashing and see what happens.
But Im sure there is a way of making the box easier to swap tho...bolt in sections of the subframe etc etc...if your gonna keep this little beastie a while prehaps it would be worth getting a second box with the 4.785 set up...surely while expensive to outlay...youd get your money back by selling it on if you werent using it!
With experiance with rallying and doing track sessions get the lowest ratio in the box!!
This will increasse acceleration and hence improve times.
dont worry about the top end speeds etc as you wont even see that speed!
The only concern is having to change gear more quickly between each gear so get a shot shifter etc to reduce the time.
but cconering becomes better and quicker!
The car already has a short shifter which Ive had to modify (Cut and re-weld) to bring the lever back towards the driver a little.
Carl, who also races a Civic (EF9) has a close box in his car, and a couple of times has hit the limiter in 5th on the faster circuits, however, the box in his car is a bit of an unknown as the box came fitted to the car and he has never burst it open to have a look inside.
Well, I went for the 4.928 in the end. The kit includes the uprated crownwheel, and an uprated mainshaft for the gear box, as in essence, you are putting more torque through the gearbox...
...gonna be fun stripping this down to fit it
when u think it will all be bolted together mate? will have to get a wee video up on utube for us
Few more bits turned up now....
Coilovers:
6 pt Harness:
Cage....
Looking gud stu
Loking good stu indeed
they your clubs there or my great grandads
Cage now painted:
..and twin loop exhaust:
very nice stu.
when you getting your gearbox bits?
Still waiting for the final drive kit to arrive.
Prolly gonna be over the xmas break though, a friend is going to be working on his car and has said I can use the garage whilst he is there, so clutch and final drive will be done at the same time along with the exhaust.
Might try and get the cage in over the weekend if the weather is ok
Cage went in over the weekend
It not fixed in just yet, but the main thing is that its nearly in position (only a few mm out) and ready to get bolted in. Took a bit longer than I thought, as I needed to cut the dash to get it in...
nice 1 mate.... how far until race standard has the car got to go?
To get the car actually to race and safety regs all it needs is the seat and harness fitting (I have these at home) and I still need to buy an extinguisher, and ignition cut off
The other bis I want to do, are fit the clutch, final drive kit, coilovers and exhaust which Ive got, just not fitted, and I think Ill also be buying some competition pads for the brakes, and the wheels need shodding with some Toyo 888 tyres
Gonna be spending a lot of time on it over Christmas, and hope to have it ready for some trackdays / test sessions in the new year - its also still 100% road legal
not long at all then
how much would it be insurance wise after all the mods roughly? (for normal road driving)
what size 888's are you going for?
www.reyland.co.uk apprantley do the cheapest.
I have a traders insurance policy, so all they require is the make and reg number - only my primary car (The Nissan) has Mods declaired - so adding another car costs me no extra
Ill be running 195/50/15s in the 888's - but drivers get a discount through the club on tyres, I think we get them for about £35 a corner
alot bigger discount than reyland can offer. i think he sells em for 60 per corner.
Looking good stu BUT you laaaaaazzzzy git cittung the dash instead of taking it out
quicker and ts not a show car i suppose
Well, the regs say the dash must stay in the car, but even to take it out to cut it wasa problem...
The cage was hard to get in the car, once in, I unbolted the dash, but couldnt get it all the way out due to the cage - and after the hassle of getting it in, it wasnt coming out to cut the dash lol
....so I trimmed it when it was loose. Its never a show car though, and purpose outrules appearance here
Great work
Would have loved to have seen yu struggle with the Cage
and then Me Chris and Andy offering absolutly no advice
from out side. Hoping you would loose your calm composoure lol
Well done.
I seriously think we should call you what ever that blokes
name was on chitty chitty bang bang, who made chitty?
Why?
Well he went in his house and came out with a car too
a lil bit of inspiration
Finally got round to getting a pic of the seat fitted, with the cage now fully fitted, and welded in
looks good
yeh it looks great m8
saw this in park garage the other day. can't wait to see it abusing the tracks.
look gud stuy, what paint did you use to paint the floor, look like you have painted it, reason I am asking is I want to paint mine but unsure if hammerite is the thing to use. anyway am guessing you will be at newbrighton next year.keep it up
Was just a random "one coat" metal paint from B&Q.
I tried Hammerite, but didnt really like the gloss finish, plus, the hammerite is really thick and doesnt go far. Although this is ment to be one coat, ive still given it a couple to be sure...
Stu, where you in Park Garage? If my car was there, I was deffo there with it
Been pretty busy over the Christmas break with the car, heres the progress
New Paddle Clutch and Lightweight flywheel fitted:
New Final drive gear set fitted
- Std Box:
Box in bits and rebuilding with new mainshaft:
Rebuilt with new shaft and crownwheel:
Lil reverse gear all on its own on the right of the pic:
Twin Loop exhaust fitted:
The exhaust has quietened the car right down, just need to noise test it, maybe someone on thursday will hold the sound meter for me to check....
?
After fitting the gear set, I drove the car, and TBH It felt about the same as before, though it felt quite flat....
The speedo wasnt working (Disturbed a connection) which in turn ment it wasnt VTEC'ing. Ive now fixed the Speedo and the car happily VTECs, and is much faster
.... I cant belive the difference it has all made!
Car used to rev at 3500rpm @ 70mph, its now about 4250rpm @ 70mph.
Estimated top speed at on the limiter of 5th is about 135mph, plenty for a 1600cc car on a UK track
very nice stuy, keep the good work up
Will be updating this thread next week, done quite a few more jobs to the car, just need to get some pics and upload them
Well, heres one of the doorcard
More pics will follow
Done the Coilovers at the weekend - did the last corner in the dark though, and popped the driveshaft out by accident lol
Extinguisher is also plumbed in, and the alloy rad / silicon hoses / new thermostat are all fitted
lookin good stu
watching this thread with keen intrest,its a great job ur doing stuy.Whats the kerbweight of this gonna be when its finished? sub 1000KGs?
Its just over 1000kgs std, so I hope to get it to round 900-950
Bad news is I snapped a drive shaft the other night whilst on road test
Just trying to find another...
WOW its coming along very nice
You bouncing off kerbs to snap the drive shaft?
Whens your first race again ?
Lol, it happened it a striaght line at the point where the car starting spinning tyres at VTEC in 1st. No dropping of clutch, or a harsh start - just a normal start, floor it and let it build.
Gonna try a std shaft for now and see how it goes. They are only about £20, but if It chews it up pretty quick, Il gonna need to look in to uprated items....
Looks like the final drive may be doing its job
Having a bit of trouble with spring rates at the moment. Std coilover springs where around the 330lb/in mark, ive worked out I need closer to 8-900lb/in to keep the front from dipping and the rear from wandering all oevr the show.
Turns in really well at the moment, which is great for slow corners, but a bit nervous in the faster corners as the front dips and kicks a rear wheel up...
Getting some paint work done over easter, and there are only one or two things left to do now - fingers crossed all will be ready for Snetterton in April
stu. Chris bought softer springs for his coilovers give him a bell matey if you cant find were to get them from.
fingers crossed your sorted for you 1st race.
Stu when you said you snapped a drive shaft; was it at g/box end(ie splines),hub end or CV joint??
It was the Gearbox side drive shaft - hub end - sheered about 1/2 way down the splines meaning the circlip on the end of the shaft was no longer doing the job and the shaft dropped out of the hub. On swapping for the new shaft, there was about 25mm of the end of the shaft left in th hub...
But all working again now?
Yeah, drive shaft is sorted now
Went up to Twweks over the weekend, ordered some
very heavy springs, braided brake lines, pull cable for the battery isolator, and some pedal extensions
Finally got round to fitting the external pull cables for the fire system and ingition cut off. They arnt connected yet, but it was a job I was having difficulty sussing out where to locate them. In the end I had to trim the bonnet back a little to allow access...
Also, painted the bonnet matt black, and stuck some stickers on...
what does that yellow square with cross in it mean? easy target???
Lol, its to show you're a novice - you need to display one until you have completed 10 races
i'd loose the sharp erdges around the pull switches too, dont want to cut your hands on them now do you
The bonnet has 2 skins, the inner skin has a rubber hose stuck over the sharp edge, the outer skin I have ground so its a rounded edge and not sharp
The pulls actually stick above the bonnet, the cut is to allow the bonnet to open and close without them catching, so even though the edges have been taken off, there should be no need to reach inside the cut out area
Also fitted:
Pedal extensions to ease heal and toe braking as the Civic had a pretty big gap between the accelerator and brake.
..and the cold air induction kit with the filter located in the front bumper so as not to suck in warm air from the engine bay.
Good Stuff.
Wouldn't mind watching you race when you get it done
IIRC, Oulton Park is on the 21st June - if me / the car last
Electric Windows have now been removed, and Ive replaced the heavy elec mech with a very very basic pully system which is even lighter than a winder mech - in fact, it weights pretty much bugger all
Window with Elec Mech stripped off..
Catch and webbing fitted...
Door card back on...
...new links...
Window with Elec Mech stripped off..
Catch and webbing fitted...
Door card back on...
Good work There Stuy...
I'm watching to see if your making a Race car or just stripping a perfectly good motor lol....
Make sure you give us all warning of your race day as i'm
sure there are plenty of us want to get all your mistakes
on video and treasure them on youtube
Good work Stuy seriously Good Job
Few more jobs done over the weekend, didnt get a chance to take any pics though
Front wings have now been painted, just need to bolt them on. Decided not to paint the rear 1/4s as they are bound to pickup some damage over the year, so may as well leave a repair / painting until that happens.
Ive also removed the powersteering. Sure the steering is heavier when moving the car around slowly, but when driving, the car feels much more positive, and you get more feedback.
IMO the Civic PAS system was too light and vaigue, and only any use when moving the car round at very low speeds
Had to cut / saw through some of the pipes and lines as they where a real pain to get at, but the result is well worth it.
have you fastened the buckle to the door that releases the windows or is it just flappin around in the wind
They are bolted to the doors with 2 small nuts and bolts
Thought so, just couldn't tell, lookin really gd chew, just had a read over the whole topic, its comin along the way i like ! any joy over the springs yet, i heard through the grape vine chew that the best set up for what your going for is to buy an ek9 and give it to me !
The springs are here, just not fitted them yet. When I was out in it yesterday, its obviously to lightly sprung on the front, and the rear is riding to high as it just wants to oversteer if you push on in to a bend....
Gonna fit the front springs, and see how the car feels, then see what adjustments I need to make to the rear. It deffo needs lowering 30-40mm more, its just a case of if that will be enough, or if Ill need lighter, or shorter springs....
As soon as the springs are on, its track day test time
Getting there matey.
were you going to do a trackday in it???
Also what tyres will you be using on racedays??
very nice stuy, have you thought about polycarb windows? to get the weight down even more?
he cnt because of the race class he is entering
he cnt because of the race class he is entering
The Class, and series specifies all OEM glass must be used. We also run a 10% weight limit. You can run 10% lighter than the listed kerb weight, any lighter than that and its a waste of time as you will have to carry ballast to get the weight up.
eg, if the car was 1000kgs std, the lightest you could run would be 900kgs...
Its not as drastic as you may think either, the interior isnt that heavy, the cage is heavier than the seats, so although its stripped, you probably gain weight with the addition of the cage. Everything else is trying to save lots of small areas of weight - TBH I think Ill struggle to get it 10% lighter than std without the use of plastics and GRP pannels which are also disallowed.
Also what tyres will you be using on racedays??
Toyo 888's are the control tyre - Medium compound as the softs are not allowed.
Right, more bits - hopfully these will all be fitted next week, just waiting for the brake fluid to get here as I need some high temp, synthetic stuff
New Bottom arms, link arms and braided lines:
New front wings:
..and new GAZ Coilovers:
I also received my BARC membership today, and the CTCRC membership is in the post - when this comes back with my membership card, I should get the door stickers and my race number
You fitting all these yourself?
You got new bushes for the arms?
Yeah, Ill be fitting it all but Im going to do it all at my mates garage where I can get the car up on a ramp as its easier to bleed all the brakes and you dont need to swap sides with the jack.
All bushes are with the arms, and at the garage he has a press for the lower ball joints
coming along nice, must say money doesnt seem to be an object with you as they cant be good value coming from tweeks lol. Why do you need new wings????
The originals have started to rust a little on the arches where crap has collected under the lip, so I bought some new ones to tidy it up, and had them painted.
Money no object?!?!?!
If I detail everything Ive spent already, I shock myself
... and thats before Ive paid any entry fees!
The originals have started to rust a little on the arches where crap has collected under the lip, so I bought some new ones to tidy it up, and had them painted.
Money no object?!?!?!
If I detail everything Ive spent already, I shock myself
... and thats before Ive paid any entry fees!
Something I always do when I get a car is scrub where the mud collects on the inner lip and run some grease around there. The mud hold moisture causing it to rust inside out. I work on wrexham ind est so if you ever need parts collecting from their just let us know. You can pay over phone etc did this for corsa john a while ago.
Something I always do when I get a car is scrub where the mud collects on the inner lip and run some grease around there. The mud hold moisture causing it to rust inside out.
Good tip that, never knew that.
Stuy's just a rich bitch lol
Cheers for the offer Ryhs, that could save me a fortune.
....not in fuel, but what I spend there, everytime I go I aways end up coming back with more than I went for
Ive also been doing that to the lips on the arches for years, unfortunatly though, you cant take in to account if the previous owner has also gone to the trouble of doing it
New coilovers got fitted yesterday, and what a difference its made using the right weight springs!!!
I fitted them with a similar setup to the old ones, and after a few road tests, got them adjusted to a setup Im feeling very happy with. The rear needed dropping a lot more than the old setup and now the car drives with a bias towards understeer
I still need to play round with the bump and rebound settings as the front is still dipping quite suddenly under braking and letting the rear wander a little. Im now at the stage however where testing on the road isnt enough, and it needs track time.
Ive also fitted the new front wings, but its the wrong agle to see them in the pic lol
Old setup:
New Setup:
jesus stu,
Looking good stu when you booking a trackday then???
Well, if I want to be out for Mallory, it needs to be before the 18th March.
Ill either book a day at Oulton, or just use the DriveMe track in Stafford - I know my other mate with the Civic is going there to run his engine in on a day when they havnt got an event on
seems alot lower, are these the springs you where talking about at the meet which are extremely solid??
Yeah, its a lot lower mate. The front springs are the ones we where talking about, the rears are much lighter and more conventional
How low is that mate, Thats just how low i want my civic as im not happy with how low mine is atm.
TBH I can
just get away with it on the road as the shocks are wound right up.
I had to test it on streaches of road where I knew the tarmac was smooth and unbroken - any bumps when the car is this stiff make it skip around - great on the track as they are smooth, but no good on the road.
For an idea, my front springs are nearly 3 times heavier than those supplied on a set of Tein Super Streets.
Sure low road cars may look good, but you need springs and shocks that will cope with such short suspension travel, they are no good when you hit bumps in the road, and if your shocks / springs cant cope your gonna be riding on bump stops meaning all your suspension will be in the tyres
TBH The Civics supension has been very hard to get even close to being right - much harder than a Nissan to set up.
Im not going to disclose all my findings though, its taken a lot of research and trial and error to get here lol
Its all about the ££££ lol
Cars looking really smart tho mate
LMAO, get it wrong, or go too low and it'll cost you even more. Running on the bump stops will kill the shocks, tyres, top mounts and lower arm bushes - not to mention your spine
Budda's got one of them camber kits on his civic, They pritty good, I mean im only 30mm low and it eat away at my alloys on the inside, Dead bad wheel lean lol.
Wheel lean (Camber) is good on a race car, not so good on the road though, as it eats the inside edges of the tyres!
Yeah thats why hes got the camber kit to pull the wheels back up right, Don't work 100% but pulled them back up alot, I know what you mean about eating tyres
New Toyo 888's:
..fitted...:
..and the cut ignition cut off and battery isolator is now all connected up, with the extinguisher relocated to the dash:
Discovered the other week that one of the pistons in the front calipers was sticking. This ment there was 25% less effort on one side, and the car was really pulling to the left under heavy braking!
This ment recon / replace the calipers. So to be safe I opted for the latter....
The car is fittted with a pair of twin pot calipers from a Honda Legend - you cannot belive how hard these have been to find new
New Calipers:
Old Sticky one...
New One fitted:
Painted, with wheel back one
(Its a tight fit, but they
just fit under the std 15's
Ive also fitted the Ferodo Race pads - gonna spend some time over the weekend bedding them in
Thats almost as tight as a virgin
Thats almost as tight as a virgin
Dont you dare try slipping my car one to test that theory
tight like a gerbil wrapped in gaffa tape....so it dont burst when you slip it one...lol
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
How do you know that, you tryed it ???
nice work mate looks fantastic
Is that a little autowirral.co.uk sticker is see
Very nice Stu.
Good luck with the racing mate
Looks brill that m8, will you be getting a vid?
*chants*
in car vid, in car vid, in car vid
Cheers Guys
Yeah, theres an Autowirral Sticker on there
Unfortunatly there wont be an incar vid
My phone isnt really up to it, and I dont have anything to mount my camera with that would pass safety
tight like a gerbil wrapped in gaffa tape....so it dont burst when you slip it one...lol
car looks awesome stuy
well done mate, so impressed with how quickly you have done this too, good look with your first race, shame you ain't filming ti though.
Oh and here's a point, every one organising convoys to car show's etc etc.
stuy is raceing all year, one of his race's will be at oulton park. a couple of us are going, i'm sure stuy can provide a date for it and start up a 'who's going to my race thread'
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Brakes have now been bed in, and boy does it stop!!!
Takes a few stops for the brakes to heat up, but from then on, with the 888 tyres, its pull your face of material when you hit the stoppers
Love this car, You have done a mint job on it, Will deffo be coming to watch a fellow civic boy race
Well done and good luck
Good luck for Mallory mate...if Im free when your at Oulton..you can count me in for that..
Havent had the chance to watch much racing past 2 years.... working on the cars and all...
Had a call from out series co-ordinator the night before last, and he was asking if Id be available for an artical for Track and Race Car Magazine
Apparently 3 new-ish civics have generated a bit of interest, and they may want to get the 3 of us, and our cars, together at a track to do an artical and photoshoot
nice work on the car good luck.....
Nice one man...go get it done...get your car recognised...can only be good for you
Not really needed to touch the car much, but following Oulton Ive ordered a few new bits.
I need a new front splitter following the demise of the last one - while Id like one fitted, its more for asthetics than performance, so Ill sort one out when Ive got these bits on...
As some of you may know, all day at Oulton I was battling with brake judder! Ive now fitted some new front disks and they are partially bedded in - I wont bore you with pics of a disc swap lol
Also, 2 laps from the end of the race I had a plug lead pop off causing the car to run on 3 cylinders, so, new Iridium plugs and Silicon leads have been ordered...
Leads are thicker than the ones on the car, and the iridium plugs give a stronger spark.
Im also trying to get hold of a new inlet manifold and trottle body. The VTEC engines are very high revving, and air flow is pretty important. Ultimatly Ill want to rebuild the engine with pistons (increase Comp ratio) / rods / cams / headwork etc, but this will be at the end of the season, so im just looking at bolt on parts at the moment that will give a little more power now, but will give their full potential after the rebuild.
So, Im currently trying to get this combo over from the US - Skunk2 Manifold and 68mm TB
Right, inspired by PhilW's purchase, Ive shamefully copied, and bought a set of the same ATS Lightweight wheels..
The main reason being that I need bigger brakes and want to stay on a 15" wheel to keep tyre costs down (They more than double if you go to a 16" wheel
), but the advantage of these over the std wheels is they have a bigger internal diameter and larger offset - ET35 rather than the std ET45, which will mean there is more space inside to get some bigger stoppers.
They are also less than 6kgs each, and they are 7" wide - stds are 6.5
Ive also been talking to a Wilwood dealer in the US about some brakes.
They do an "off the shelf" kit for my car, but the options are 285mmx21mm or 315mmx21mm - both of which are not thick enough for a race application - Im already warping 282x25mm discs!!
So, Ive been through their catalogue a lot over the last few days, working out new offsets for Bells, rotors, and the caliper (prolly taken 4-5 hours to work out all the right parts), and finally got round to ordering all the components to build a 300mm x 32mm setup - which should do the job
I did look in to HiSpec kits, and they do an "off the shelf" kit, which is around the 300x32 mark, but is a few ££ sort off £1000
I recon Ive put this kit together for less than 1/2 that
Thats some Nice detective Work there.. They wont look too bad on the car at all, so stop worrying. As you say, long as you can keep them 15 " but with bigger brakes, youll be happy as Larry..
Later Braking into Lodge for you then muhahahaha
I was a the wierdo in the old car beeping on sunday
when are you fitting the breaks bud
Bestest wheels ever Stu, what size are the brakes your fitting?
When all the bits arrive lol
Though the series Im thinking about next year .... if I fit 4 pots I go to a modified class rather than a production class. If the ones at the moment stay good now they have ducting going to them I may just store the 4 pots until I modify the car enough to move up a class. Its not worth moving up a class just by fitting brakes....
Its a custom spec'd Wilwood setup, using 4 pots, bells, and 300x30mm rotors
Well done Stuy
Car sold
Do you miss it or are you excited about the datsun?
Are you gonna do a build up thread on that too?