Does the stall thingy mean the torque converter holds 3k before spinning the wheels when on the brake so you can get a better start or is it to do with when the converter has the least 'slip' if that makes sense? I dont know too much about autobox's. Just how they work etc but nothing about making them faster.
Every time I try and explain
"stall" I usually confuse even more, but I'll have a go.
OK, a torque converter is there to actually multiply torque from the engine.
On a standard car, (camaro in this case) the vehicle ticks over around 400/500rpm, and can stay still while in drive usually upto 800rpm, max maybe 1000rpm while you are standing on the brakes - with both feet and both hands-...Any more than this - if the brakes hold out would stall the engine.
When you modify the engine, the real power would come in around 3K - 3.5K and peak around 6.8K, so a standard converter would be fighting to move the car before you are "on the cam".
So by the time you are in the power range, 2 seconds or maybe more have gone by and you are only now making power.
So the only way to get the power to the ground is to have a converter that is "loose" into that power band. This isn't to say that the car wont move until you are revving 3K+, but it allows slippage up to that range.
Now the brakes cannot hold the car while this is going on - while standing as hard as possible on them, the rear wheels would be burning rubber and
the pad linnings - not a good situation.
So what is normally fitted to the car is a "line lock", this in effect applies the brakes to the front whhels only, leaving the rear wheels free to warm up the tyres and not destroy the brakes. So when the track lights turn green the line lock releases and all hell breaks loose..........
Without a line lock, you can just "stomp" on the gas and "flash stall" and try to keep your pants clean.....
So usually people "walk" them off the line and then "stand on it" when grip permits.
The bottom line is, a higher than stock stall will allow you to get into your power range off the line, and not loose seconds working your way up there.
Whole other story if the car is "bottle fed" as well, then you need other computer wizardry to assist. I will do a write up on this as my (silver Z28) build progresses
I hope this makes some sense to you, top marks if you read this to the end
£55!!!
Hes always talking about long block / short block, and all the special parts used, but it just never seems to last ![[Linked Image]](http://www.classictouringcars.com/images/Web%20IMG_3580.jpg)
