The difference in the wet and dry kits is the wet kits inject fuel and nitrous oxide into the intake, as where the dry systems just inject nitrous into the intake. The wet kits make me feel a little safer since they are throwing in fuel with it to ensure a rich enough mixture.
After you get your kit, you will need to take everything out of the shrink wrap that it comes in. Make sure that you don't loose anything out of the kit. You will need almost every tiny part. Check to make sure that all of your parts are there and unbroken. I had a broken ON/OFF switch right out of the package. I e-mailed Summit Racing (where I bought it) and the promptly sent us a new one. It is a good idea to use plastic bowls or magnetic trays if you have them to keep the smaller parts in.
The first thing that I did was to figure out where I would mount the fuel tap for the fuel solenoid feed. This is where the fogger gets the fuel to inject into the intake. After reading the directions through a few times, I used the banjo bolt at the end of the secondary fuel rail (picture above) Using a 19mm open end wrench, remove the bolt on the side. Make sure you have a rag handy, as fuel is going to leak out a little bit. There is a washer just behind the head of the bolt, and another right where the banjo meets the fuel rail. Make sure you don't loose them or the rail will leak when you reinstall everything later.
After you have removed the bolt, mark the center of the head so that you can drill a hole through it. This is where you are going to screw in the 1/16" NPT X 4AN fitting. After you mark the centerline of the head, drill a 1/4" hole through the head.
Next tap the hole with the included 1/4" NPT tap. Clean off the banjo bolt, and make sure there are no burrs. Thread the fitting into the head using Teflon tape. Next reinstall the banjo bolt into the secondary fuel rail.
Now thread the open end of the red 2ft 4AN hose onto the newly installed fitting. Route the hose towards the passenger side of the engine bay if that is where you are going to mount the solenoids later on.
Now it's time to install the fogger into the intake. Remove the elbow from the upper intake plenum. There are 2 12mm nuts that hold it on. Remove the screw clamp that holds it to the rest of the intake going towards the MAF (mass air flow) meter (by the air filter). Drill a 7/16" hole perpendicular to the inlet duct centerline. There is a flat spot on the rear that makes a good place for this. Insert the fogger nozzle adaptor in the hole with the head on the inside of the elbow. Use some Loctite on the other half of the adaptor and tighten it onto the elbow.
Now thread the fogger into the adaptor on the elbow. I used more Teflon tape on this as well. Tighten it so that the holes on the fogger are facing the intake plenum when it is inside the elbow. Make sure that it is far enough down in the adaptor that it won't spray anything onto the edge of the elbow where it enters it.
Now you can connect the red and blue 3AN hoses to the fogger. Before you do that though, you must install the jets into the fogger. They are held in place by the hoses when they are installed. The #37 jet goes into the nitrous side, and the 22 goes into the fuel side. I didn't use Teflon tape here for 2 reasons. The first is that I will be changing the jets quite often while I continue the tuning part of this install. The other is that I don't want the tape to get into the fogger with me changing the jets all the time.
Now you will need to assemble the solenoid assembly. Screw in the blue AN fitting into the IN side of the nitrous solenoid. This is where the nitrous line from the bottle feeds the solenoid. Take the bracket that comes with the kit and mount both the fuel and nitrous solenoids to it. Find a spot in the engine bay on the passenger side to mount it. I used an old bolt hole from something that I removed earlier. Mount the bracket securely to the inside wheel well or the firewall.
Then connect your fuel feed hose to the IN side of the fuel solenoid. Now connect the lines that run from the fogger to the solenoids. It should look like the above picture at this point.
Now we need to start the bottle mounting and nitrous feed line install. You will need to jack up the back of the car so that you have room to get under the car and feed the line forward. We feed the line most of the way through the body channel that runs on each side of the car from front to rear. There are ovals cut out in it so that you can feed it fairly easily. In the rear hatch area, you will need to find a place to mount the bottle. We mounted ours right in front of the gas fill tube cover. It is opposite of the fuel pump and fuel level access cover. Remove the cover and drill a large hole so that you can feed the end of the nitrous line through it. Pull enough line so that you can connect it to the bottle when you put it all back together. We left about 2 feet to be safe. Now mark off the holes in the hatch floor where you want to mount the bottle brackets. Making sure that you don't drill into the gas tank, drill holes to match the bolts that you are going to use.
Mount the brackets to the floor and put in the bottle for fitment. If it looks good, remove the bottle and replace the carpet, cutting slits for the carpet to go over the bottle brackets.
Remount the bottle in the brackets and secure it with the bolts included. Connect the nitrous feed line and push down the excess line so that it has a clean look.
Now connect the nitrous feed line to the solenoid assembly at the blue AN fitting that you installed earlier. It should look like the picture above now.
Now you need to do all the electrical connections. Disconnect the battery. Install the throttle micro switch to one of the bolts that holds on the intake elbow. Bend the bracket so that when you have the throttle at WOT (wide open throttle) it will hit the micro switch. Install the NOS arming switch in the center console somewhere (or position of your choice) Run the red wire to the engine bay through the firewall just above the passengers foot area. Connect the 3 pins of the ON/OFF switch to the ground, accessory, and +12V power supply. Connect the other end to the top pin on the micro switch. Connect another wire to the lower pin on the micro switch, and then run it to the power relay. Connect that wire to the red wire on the relay. Now run the blue wire from the relay to the solenoids. Connect 2 of the solenoid wires, 1 each solenoid, to the blue wire from the relay. Connect the orange wire from the relay to a +12V power supply. Connect the green wire of the relay to a good ground.
Now mount the relay to the firewall or inside fender. I mounted mine right next to the air filter area. Recheck all of your connection once you have it mounted. Reconnect the battery in the car. Now it is time to test the system!
Turn the ON/OFF switch inside the car to ON. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position, but do not start the car. Make sure that the bottle is also turned off. Have someone push the gas pedal to the WOT position. You should hear both of the solenoids click, meaning that they are working. If no noise is heard, recheck all of your connections.
Here is the finished product. And man oh man is it fun! We took the car down the local test road (long, straight, and flat) and did some pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear. Making sure not to push the pedal to the floor before 4K rpm's, I hit the floor at 4K and the car just pushed me back into the seat. The feel is great. It pulled hard with no signs of problem. Now that I have almost emptied the first NOS bottle, I can truly say that this is a product that is well worth the money. There is no real engine wear since it is used for brief periods of time, and not every time you push the gas pedal. I highly recommend this mod if you can't afford to upgrade to a TII, don't want the headaches of a supercharger, or just want to throw down another 50+ hp to the wheels.