How much should it cost to power flush a 7 radiator central heating system, British gas are looking at £700/£800.

The best way to find out must be to get other quotes, there are lots of companies who advertise this service around the area.
Some advertise from £180 but that seems too low to do a decent job.

Cheers Salmon, I have had a look online and the prices start at £180 and increase to silly money. Hopefully the system will refill and run giving me a bit of time to get it done, if not I will need someone today/tomorrow if anyone can recommend someone,will know within the hour.....fingers crossed

H.S.S.will hire you a power flusher for £90,if you're savvy enough to do it yourself you know you will be getting a thorough job.

Cheers Ludwigvan looked at that one, may have to get a few quotes

Give Eddies gas services a ring on 07855735125 mention my name. Ian.

The question is, does it actually need flushing? And if so, what type of flush do you want? Are there reasons why it needs a flush, ie: cold feed pipework incorrectly configured?
If you decide to go with the £180 flush, all I can say is good luck.

Cheers Ian

System is configured 100% correct, however the restriction/ blockage is on a joint where the cold feed meets the open vent. This joint is under the bath and access is limited. I have looked at the joint and the job is possible however I'm not a plumber so would leave it to a plumber to do.
As for the £180 quote this was via the internet and the first I saw to be able to compare prices against what the gas board quoted, I am not likely to use the cheapest company as I always get four or five quotes for jobs before parting with cash.
The system will need a flush as when bleeding the radiators black water is coming out also the old pump was heavily gunked up

£700/£800 is a joke. It would probably be cheaper to simply buy new rads. They are not outrageously expensive unless you have very exotic fashionable ones.

I routinely remove and replace them when decorating - easier than trying to paint/paper behind them!. It is not hard to do, and I suspect you can do a better job of cleaning the sludge out of them off the wall, outside, by using a little ingenuity.

Saves you a fortune, and you know it's done properly if you've done it yourself!

I agree the price quoted is silly and a price I will not be paying. The system is fully working again but will need a flush sooner rather than later.

Does your system have a header tank?

Pmsl advise from an expert.

Erm, what do you think?

Yes system does have a header tank in the loft.

Finney, bit of advise, "don't take central heating advise from someone who knows nothing about central heating.

Perfectly legitimate question.

Idea of this thread was to get ideas or suggestions of companies to get quotes from.
The gas board have diagnosed the fault and suggested the remedy,having read the quote they gave me I am still trying to pick myself up off the floor. £719 to flush system and fit filter plus £165 to drain and inhibit system......oh how I laughed......
I will need to get it flushed at some point but not by the Gas Board

No it's not, if the system has an open vent, it obviously has a header tank.
Anyone who knows what they are talking about wouldn't have asked if there is a header tank on a system with an open vent, I think Finney wants advise from people who know what they are talking about.

Sent you a pm Finney.

It is possible that if you haven't had it covered, that some piece of crap may have fallen in been drawn down the cold feed pipe and that is causing the problem. If there is an obstruction, sludge may well build up around it.

It's worth noting that expansion and contraction of the water as it heats and cools continuously draws in oxygen in open systems. This allows corrosion to take place in the system which is what causes sludge in the first place. Also, if there is a weeping joint somewhere in your system where it does no harm like under the floorboards downstairs, you won't know about it. This draws in even more oxygen.

I have a sealed system now 30 years old. On installation I found I was having to introduce water regularly and eventually found a weeping joint. Once I sorted that I have not had to add water at all, except when removing a rad for decorating. The water in the system is almost as clear as what comes from the tap, apart from a slight discolouration from the inhibitor, and there is no sludge.

I would suggest you turn off the water to your header tank and watch if the level falls over a day or two. If it does, you have a leak, and it would be wise to find it and cure it. Sludge means corrosion, and corrosion probably implies a leak.

Not good news, at least you can look for any problem and hopefully it will save trouble in the long run. Good luck.