Right,having found that SOME S13 200SXs are cheap and that i can get insured on one fully comp for 480-600 quid (excess dependant quote) as of next month im really wanting one.Few questions

1.What are the good points about this car
2.Bad points?
3.I know they rust on the tailgate,anywhere else?
4.Reliable mechanically?
5.Tuning potential (i hear stage 2=280 brake is not too hard to reach and is "safe"


A mate of mine at work has one,its been off the road for ages as somethin happened (which i dont know ATM) but the nearside rear wheel is pointing in at the front by about 20-30 degrees,
1.What could that be?
2.Could i fix it cheap
3.What should i offer him to take it off his hands

Its a facelift model,in white,with no obvious sign of rust,aftermarket exhaust,gearknob and 18s(i think,17s a maybe)

Ill get more info on it when he's back in work

I spotted a few on autotrader for less than a grand,are these worth it or will they be dogs.I dont mind gettin my hands dirty if they have small problems(shite idle,blowing turbo gasket etc)

How can you get insured on one fully comp for 480-600 quid?

check the online insurance thread

Must be an ace postcode as my mate with similar circumstances but different postcode got quoted a grand

This is the style im after,its the one my colleages got,same colour,just got exhaust and wheels and tints on

OK, S13's, Ive had a fair few, inc one over 350bhp, so heres the low down:

Bad points:

Chocolate cranks - the CA18 IS very prone to big end problems and is expensive to fix
Rust: Under the spoiler, rear of the sills, chassis legs behind the rear wheels, top of the front suspension turrets.
Rear subframe bushes are also prone to failure, again £200 for Nismo bushes (Nissan dont sell them without a subframe) and similar money to fit them.

Turbo gaskets are an easy job (Or at least when you have done it a few times )

280bhp is quite possible, but you need a fair bit of stuff to make it reliable, including a metal headgasket, uprated clutch, bigger turbo, Stage2 ecu and maybe bigger injectors and MAF.

Hope that helps

Any idea why this cars got a wonky wheel then,could that be the chassis leg or subframe rusted away??? or more likely to be buckled hub or something?

If the wheel is wonky enough to be noticed by eye, my guess is that its gone in to a kerb sideways and bent one of the rear arms - I doubt normal wear and tear could do damage that noticable

its more than noticable mate,it looks daft,and the car hasnt driven since it happened (last summer at earliest) How much u reckon it would cost to replace the parts myself

Depends how much damage has been done really

If its effected the chassis (and twisted it) I wouldnt go near the car, if its just the rear arms and maybe a hub - £50ish for parts....

Think ill get this one of my mate sooner rather than later (as long as the chassis is ok) cos i'll be able to offer him pittence for it,somethin tells me he's not willing to put effort in to sell it so if i dont offer for it it'll just rust away where it is,so ill take it off him and work on it myself to get it back on the road while using my scort as a daily driver til its ready,then sell my car

Scoop the race is on for a 200sx as i am also looking a ALOT at the moment and harrasing poor stu to death .

Looks like we are both after the same car i want a white one or maroon.

Is this the same car you were talking to me about a couple of months back??

Think it is mate but i cant remember the convo,but if i did mention a particular car it'd be this one.Shes a beaut,facelift one (not sure what reg as its got a private plate)In white with clean outer body

Spoke to the lad last night and apparently its only a tie rod thats died, altho he says the car nut and owner of the motor club on camp is gonna change all 4 for him,and put a new floor in (not sure if the current one is an MOT fail but he's puttin one in and undersealing it for him) all this work is gonna cost 400 quid apparently. Think ill look at it myself,buy it for less than 600 and then do the tie rod myself,save the floor til next year if it can last

Looked at it last night,there is rust visable and it is pretty bad,the sills have a whole the size of a mobile phone in and the rest looks rusty,think ill get all the info from motor club owner and see if i can get it fully cleaned up for the 400 notes

I'd steer clear of any car that has to have whole panels replacing - if it's been left to rot for that long, you have to wonder about the rest of the car. I'd never buy another car with even a dot of rust on ever again.

How about you get a nice AE86, like this one (snigger):

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1984-TOYOTA-C...290QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

It'd be nice if it wasn't an absolutely rustbucket - legendary cars though.

how much wud it cost to buy a new rear nearside tierod?? and cud i fit it myself??

It's just a bar with two bolt holes on either end and a little adjuster thing in the middle - second hand about ten quid. Just undo the bolts and seperate the tapered ball joints.

ok,its two tie rods,and its best to do both sides at the same time yes? Not sure if i shud take the leap just yet tho

Scoop i have got myself a 200sx (havnt put it in mmc yet cos i havnt picked it up yet)

Should get my hands on it when i get back of my hols.





Full S/s Exhaust
K&n
Dump Valve
10 Months Mot
New Discs And Pads Alround
All Sill And Underneath Plated/welded Up
Tax Till July
Cd Player
Re Con Turbo

Not a minter by any means but i have already bought the parts i need to get it running proper.

looks nice that one mate,how many greenbacks that set u back?

MMMMMMMM That would be telling. Lets say i have change from the cash i have saved.