Got a bit of a wierd fault. Ill start the engine- all ok starts first time, runs for a couple of seconds then cuts out dead. It will then take me 3 or 4 goes to restart the engine when I am doing it there is no noise whatsoever cant hear the ignition etc, then after a few goes it will suddenly start and work ok. Only started happening recently and doesnt happen everytime i get in the car but it does seem to happen more frequently- anyone got any ideas what this could be- got me stumped
I'm sure I had this on my Corsa or Astra once, can't remember what it was now, it was simple though - I'll try and remember.
On my Volvo it was the fuel filter with the same symptoms. On another of my volvos with similar problems it was a fuel cutoff valve.
Just remembered, it was on my Astra - the alarm switch for the bonnet wasn't high enough, and would intermittently trigger the immobilizer.
Had the fault for a while, found out when the Alarm went off in some wind, fixed the switch and the car started first time from then on.
na its petrol chris. Ive done the diagnostic pedal test using this website
http://www.astraownersclub.com/vb/showthread.php?t=250554and get the following 2 codes:
161450
161600
Looking at this it gives me the following 2 diagnosis
P1614 Immobiliser Wrong Signal Received Immobiliser B-008
P1616 CIM (Steering Column Module) Wrong Environment Identifier Immobiliser B-006
So it would seem to indicate a possible immobilisor fault as DD pointed out- any ideas from these codes what the fault is and if its simple to sort? Any help greatly appreciated
Sounds like its the key fob, it has a small black block inside which is the immobilser chip. This is ID'd electronically by the ignition switch.
Have you got other car keys on the same ring, sometimes another key with the same or similar chip can confuse the electronic ID.
Chris put me right on this once before - the central locking is separate from the immobilser.
It may be a good idea to reset the ECU, just disconnect the battery for half an hour. You might have to re-program your radio afterwords (make sure you have the radio-code). And strange thins like electric windows may go a bit funny - but everything else should be ok.
The windows can be fixed by winding them down all the way, then winding them up and holding the up button for a further 5 seconds - elsewise they start working properly after about 24 hours anyway.
The immobiliser isn't working properly, it's a ring around the ignition barrel, that receives a signal from a chip in the key.
If you open the key you'll see a little 1cm long chip.
If you want to replace it you'll have to change the ECU, immobiliser column ring and key chip (scrap yard jobbie).
ah ok, ive got a spare key for it, is it worth trying the spare key then? no other car keys on ring but ill try the spare key then and see if that does anything failing that ill try disconnecting the battery for a bit to see if that resolves it, cheers for your help guys
Certainly be worth trying the spare. I've heard something can go wrong with the ignition collar that reads the key, but not actually had chance to play and see what goes wrong.
Hope the spare works fine, its certainly the easiest solution if it works.
Various arguments about how long you have to leave the battery disconnected to reset the ECU, some say 24 hours, some say an hour, some say a half. Mines always reset on half an hour, error codes gone, windows going funny (they lose their automatic open and close, sometimes one side sometimes both). Car might go a bit lumpy because it has to re-learn all the timing mapping etc.
Once again new cars causing crap, now you can see why I prefer my retro cars
