Recently my alfa 147 2.0 selespeed has started running like a dog and as its an alfa my usual garages wont touch it tuning wise my other alfa specialist is in st helens which is a a logistical nightmare
Ive changed plugs , filters ,checked sensors etc etc but its running foul and guzzling the petrol can anyone recommend a decent tuner who is cheap

Is the timing correct? I heard these engines don't like belts.

I will probably get belts done at same time as tune ,hopefully it is something that simple and cheap

Mike, I've sent you a few pm's asking for contact details on Peugeot....

Hi TheDr Ive replied sorry for the delay

It arrived just as I posted this, no worries, I've passed your details on so hopefully he'll give you a call soon.

Check the MAF, its a known Alfa/Bosch issue, I had a 156 V6 for two years, put three MAF's on it... Not my last Alfa, but certainly the last time I have one as my only car!

i disconnected the maf and it still ran bad

Well - it will do, it needs that to meter the air mass being drawn into the engine, from that mass it then calculates the base fuel needed. If it made no difference at all with the MAF off, its likely the MAF.

If the MAF is voltage based (a hot-wire MAF) then you can check its output, probably be around 0.9 to 1.2 V at idle, if its anything further out than this, its likely goonered.

However - the Germans (who made all the engine electrics for the 147 - Bosch) are quite clever sorts, so I suspect the MAF is more likely a Karman-Vortex sensor, which outputs a frequency, in which case you'll need an OBD reader to see the air mass reading.

Failing that again, another possibility is the IAT (Inlet Air Temperature) sensor, this "might" be built into the MAF, again an OBD reader needed for that one - it corrects base fuelling against air temperature (as airs density changes with temperature).

And finally, the only other sensor that has a say on base fuel quantity (and its the biggest say of them all) is the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature), once again, sad to say - its an OBD reader job.

pm ill throw it on my diagnostics machine and view live data. best bet to catch a dodgy sensor/ iffy timing.

As a side note - if you have an Alfa as a daily driver, invest in this -> http://www.alfadiag.net/

If you buy the software, I have the correct OBD cable you need, which you can borrow if needs be.

Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve (EGR) is also a favourite. On some cars you can disconnect the vacuum tube, block of the inlet end and open the oil cap to effectively remove the EGR system as a quick check at idle.

The other things to look out for are air leaks (even very small) in the inlet system from the MAF onwards. Blocked EGR recirculation vacuum pipes, especially if they have a limiting jet in the pipe or at the ends.

Then there is fuel pump, injectors etc etc. What were the plugs like, any look different from the others?

From your description it sounds like its rough all the time, or is it just at idle?

Chris Gilly will do an OBD check for you and advise - he must be really ill today to have not jumped in by now.

I have got the cable and software unidiag i tried before the snow and was baffled im trying to teach myself how to use it had a good read of instructions tonight
i will run a diagnostic tommorow

If I come down with Lukasz tomorrow I'll bring the Solus with me and see if it can read anything.

Be aware that being a Selespeed car, there will be a number of proprietary fault codes (DTC's we call 'em) that aren't in ANY diagnostic tool, except for the genuine Fiat Examiner (the official tool used by Fiat/Alfa). So hopefully your fault is in something generic.

While something like a Sun Modus will talk to every car in basic scan-tool mode, only the proper manufacturer tool can do things like set up the selespeed position sensors and solenoids. This I think has to be done if the engine ECU is replaced.

po150 02 sensor circuit malfunction fault code

Thats your first stop then, dead O2 sensor, rough running will come from the fuel trim being screwed up, as the O2 sensors give feedback to correct the fuelling.

Is there anyway of taking these out and checking as dont fancy spending £180 and not being the problem ?

odd as it sounds you may just need a new battery bud.

You said that yours is a 2.0 Is this the MAF for it, a lot cheaper than £180 if it is.

eBay

Going to check battery voltage tomorrow
£180 for 2 lambda sensors had maf off today seems clean and in good condition but you never can tell watching listing anyways cheers
and

Cheers for the recommendation for my peugeot TheDr hope he enjoys the car

Sounds pretty conclusive, sometimes its just the connector or even a wire broken off at the sensor end. Very occasionally its just some cr*p on the sensor. If you have pre-cat and post-cat sensors you could try swopping them over, I can't remember which is the more critical one but I would guess the pre-cat.

Wouldn't drive it too much like this, it can wreck your cat.

Pre-cat gives the closed-loop reading to the ECU, the post-cat just verifies that the emissions have dropped by a "suitable" amount on passing the cat, this is part of OBD2 standard to ensure catalyst efficiency. Or in english, its a load of chuff.

Try the link below for sensors - the post cat "shouldnt" make it run rough, only the pre-cat can do that (in theory, but its an Alfa so anything is possible).

-> http://www.lambdapower.co.uk/

Looks like both lambdas have the same connector and rear has longer lead. So you could try swopping them over but leaving the (new) rear one disconnected (lead won't be long enough) and seeing if it runs smoother. I'd try it if it was mine just to confirm for those prices, but your risk

I would, my eml came on last week and the car wouldnt engage vtec (honda civic typeR) Voltage was 12.7 so I knew it was a volt or 2 down, I went down different avenues looking for the fault. Anyway long story short it was the battry and the cars been fine since.

Having tuned hundreds of Honda's over the years, reluctant VTec engagement should always ring alarm bells, as it usually means low oil pressure. The VTec solenoid is oil pressure operated, so if you have low oil pressure, you get no VTec.

Just a word of warning

I have to say dude, it does sound unlikely, most automotive solenoids fire easily enough from about +10V upwards, still, if the battery has sorted it - then thats all good.

I'm assuming (as you said you have a VTec light) we're talking about a B series engine? Most of my work was on EP3's and DC5's , both powered by the K20A2.

Its an ep3 k20 block. good to know an expert though, im going through a few probs atm, i'll start a new topic and discuss it there rather than spam up mike cookes thread

Oh ok, if you've issues with it - feel free to PM me. I've been involved with K20's in Civics, Integras and transplants into Lotus Elise and Exige S1's and S2's

Also fitted my fair share of Jackson superchargers, and a couple of Rotrex centrifugal blowers.

I was just about to suggest the O2 sensor, and then I read thats what the fault reader came up with

If the engine check light comes on with a Honda then the VTEC is disabled. I had a dodgy connector on my speedo plug on the Old EG Race car - when the speedo stopped working, so did the VTEC

The VTEC system engages using the oil pressure to extend pins to lock the followers, but the soleniod that allows the oil to flow is electronically controlled. Unless the oil pressure was low enough to bring the dash light on, I doubt it would make a difference to VTEC engagement

It cant be lack of oil chew (recent service), so I can only put it down to lack of power...or the hondadat ecu being gay??

I know its not lack of oil matey If Lack of oil was effecting the VTEC engagement, youd have more to worry about than VTEC not coming in...

Ohhhh, forgot you had Hondata, that has datalogging - plug it in and have a look

I need the linkage cable and prob software, or can I just plug it in to the fridge

I have the Hondata link cable matey - S/W should be downloadable for free from somewhere.

you are my savior chew xxxx