Right then its mine for now.So time to get to work on it..
Already done;
Fit new brake line from GTR master cylinder to front brakes-so now it stops!
Refilled brake system with racing DOT 5.1 brake fluid
Bonnet,headlight covers and front wings re-aligned
Cleaned up engine bay of grease,dust and general dirt
Reduced tickover/idle from 1250rpm! now at 1000rpm
Relocate heads-up display and controller
Reposition driver seat height as guy was 6'4" and I'm not!
Cleaned grime off lovely flocked dash and centre console
Set up Blitz boost controller with manly settings(he had it on a gay 0.6bar)
Things to do today
Lower all coilovers about 20/30mm and set up camber
Adjust and clean up rear shoes and hand brake mech.
Rewire stereo(all speakers wired up wrongly)
look up possible rear spoilers
get doors to shut more easily
and anything else I spot...
wow, not too much then. Good luck, bit of a list there
Very good jones just popped on tinternet all the way from sunny cyprus 35c yay. Hows it drive matey????
When you getting it mapped????
pics pics pics
Lower all coilovers about 20/30mm and set up camber
Adjust and clean up rear shoes and hand brake mech.
Rewire stereo(all speakers wired up wrongly)
look up possible rear spoilers
get doors to shut more easily.....ALL now done!!
No pics yet...get some tomorrow hopefully. Here are some old ones before I got it...
Like this picture.
My camara works slowly getting better
very nice, skyline engine? bet that sounds nice
very nice, skyline engine? bet that sounds nice
New wheels
And new carbon bits plus some polishing going on Chris can tell you more.
Looks great with them wheels though Chris
lookin good Chris
if I see you about, i'll make sure i'll acknowlege you next time
i don't know chris maybe you'll end up sleeping in it soon lol
spend any more money on it
carbon engine bits fitted,engine parts removed and sent off for polishing,adjustable front tension rods and rear toe arms fitted...so yes been spendin mate;)
Joe a GREEN 540 bmw passing you sidways should of give it away
Whens the polished but back Chris has he said???
should all be done and back to me by Saturday hopefully
engine bay looks a bit empty without them
so only half a skyline motor under there then? lol
carbon engine bits fitted,engine parts removed and sent off for polishing,adjustable front tension rods and rear toe arms fitted...so yes been spendin mate;)
Ohhhh, carbon and polished bits - shiney, shiney!!
GET SOME PICS UP YOU SLACKER
bits polished...can't wait to fit them.I think I will be gettin alot more done in the future!!
Very nice mate - very bling :Grin:
I will put pics up when they are fitted along with carbon bits tomorrow..
He wasnt lying when he said he could do a spot on job matey there verynice
got to wait for the post man now...don't think it will be today!
Anypics yet matey???
Looking forward to seeing all the engine bay goodies
Some sweet bits done to Chris's engine bay carbon bits mmm and some top polishing.
BEFORE
AFTER
[youtube]j6B2xYUNcwk[/youtube]
You sell the carbon bits did you mate?
yes mate all gone...
Updated spec...
EXTERIOR
HID Headlights
Kouki rear lights (inc clusters, centre, bottom and lock)
Greddy Air direction panel (for front of engine bay)
New 20mm wider vented front Chargespeed wings fitted
18” Compomotives (perfect offset and huge clearance)
Carbon Fibre OEM Bonnet
Sparco Bonnet Pins
Type X Kouki Front Bumper
Type X Kouki Front Bumper Under Valance
Type X Side Lights
Carbon Headlight Covers
Nissan Fender Stays
180sx Zenki Clear Side Repeaters
Folding mirrors and switch fitted, JDM yO!
Type X kouki rear spats
JDM Rear bumper
Type X Zenki Side Skirts
INTERIOR
Nismo Gear Knob
Sparco 350mm Suede steering wheel
Driftworks snap off Boss
Bride Seat Rail (passenger side)
New Chargespeed seats fitted
Bride Seat Rail (drivers side)
Apexi Rev Speed Meter with G-sensor
Super small Turbo Timer with temp, battery monitor, and lap timer built in
DEFI Gauges and control box 60mm Oil Pres, Inlet Manifold Pres and Water Temp gauges
Flocked dash fitted
DEFI VSD - X Concept(includes heads-up display)
DEFI Oil Temperature Sensor Set
DEFI Water Temperature Sensor Set
New mat set in grey
Defi boost gauge in pillar pod
HANDLING
Cusco 1.5way diff
Apex 310mm Brake Kit
Apex coilover kit 8/6 spring rates
Front Braided Hoses
Front Whiteline Anti Roll bar and drop links
Rear Whiteline Anti Roll bar and drop links
Adjustable rear toe arms
Adjustable front tension arms
Tein rod and rod ends plus spacers for extra lock
Z32 Rear Brakes inc brand new discs
Rear Camber Arms
Fully polly-bushed rear suspension and subframe
S/S Braided brake lines on front and rear
ABS removed
s14 Brake Master Cylinder
R32 GTR Brake Master Cylinder fitted
ENGINE & DRIVETRAIN & BREATHING
HKS Silent Hi-Power exhaust system fitted-single box now!
Blitz Electronic Boost Controller
Koyo Radiator
KenLoe 12" electric fan plus spal 13" fan
Stainless power steering pot
Nismo Oil Filler Cap
Greddy Front Mount Intercooler
RB25 Gearbox and other conversion bits
Custom Propshaft
GTR rev counter fitted in s13 clock cluster
NON-ABS rear section of prop
Standard ECU and GTR 444's
RB26dett (R32) finished, fully rebuilt, full history of rebuild
New Walbro fitted
OS Giken twin plate Clutch cover, and NISMO Slave Cylinder
CNC 3" Stainless Steel Hot Pipe
Turbo Dynamics - Steel Internal Turbos, 360' thrust bearing on R32 GTR housings
Looks the dogs balls that Chris
bling bling, loving the shiny bits
....you might have cleaned it for the pics...
Looking very nice mate
Chris took the car to demon tweeks today for the 4 wheel aligment had them set to a setting of his choice for drifting forget what they are he will chuck them up later.
Good service there would recomend it to anybody.
Please delete these pics, as I keep finding myself looking at the driftworks car's for sale section.
HELL NO
What he said.
Everyone needs an S body in their life.
Chris I have pictures from oulton still that i havnt even gone through. Do you want me to post the ones of your car? Same goes for Tony. Ill post em on your project threads if you want or i can do some e-mailage.
Yeah post mine up matey i am sure Chris wont mind either
MAKE SURE ITS HIM SPINNING
Some them cars are nice
OK, ill post them up when ive gone through them. Time for a shower and a sleep now though so im fresh for tommorow.
Cheers Tone...I think this site is gettin pretty damn quiet recently...
Ill agree with ya on that...
Sidways is the only way forward dude...and you seem to be moving "Forward" very well
Nice one
Cheers Tone...I think this site is gettin pretty damn quiet recently...
Yeah car side of it has gone very quiet indeed
After a little escapade with another S14(with a known 300bhp) I can surmise that my car is runnin about 300bhp on 0.6 bar!...can't wait for mapping and 1.5 bar!
After a little escapade with another S14(with a known 300bhp) I can surmise that my car is runnin about 300bhp on 0.6 bar!...can't wait for mapping and 1.5 bar!
MM that be spam then???
300bhp-Hell no...Oscar
Spam is scared shatless of his car lol
Spams also made 371bhp at the last RR day
371bhp !!!!!!!!!!!!!
That sounds plenty enough for going sideways
Spam aint no drifter...he just wanted a quick car-his words not mine!
Sideways is the only way forward dude
I can remember someone saying that "driven by the rear is the only way to go forward" but I'm liking this sideways malarchy
Sideways isnt the way forward....
When the rear end's loose, the car's fast. Loose is fast, and on the edge you're out of control......
Been watching Days of thunder pal???
Sideways isnt the way forward....
When the rear end's loose, the car's fast. Loose is fast, and on the edge you're out of control......
What if you are doing a donut thats not quick
Been watching Days of thunder pal???
at least some one got it!!!!!!
wow, lookin really tidy bud
Lookin very very smart
engine bay pics??
Looking good. Im really looking forward to going down there later in the year now
was this the car with the incar video on pootube?
it sounded like an RB
Yeah thats 1 of my Vids matey just got another 4 uploading at the min matey
These just went up on dw matey
Car made 330 bhp at rising sun at just 0.6 of a bar which is impressive as this is what it runs round on and can be wound up more its still to be tuned and the fella told Chris he will get a reliable 550+
Whens it getting tuned?
Quality pics
need another standard ECU then its off to get maped(again)
why another standard ECU?
I want the standard ECU remaped...rather than aftermarket ECU.The standard ECU has loads of variables compared to loads of aftermarket ones!
Ahh fair enough.
Where you getting that mapped?
Rising sun performance(again)...south west of London!!
Have you got your new ECU yet?
Is your old one worth anything with that chip in it? It might offset some of the costs. Did you say it was Buddy Club or someone like that? A JDM name whore might have it.
Buddy club mate...but the map is unreadable so no one knows what its set to do boost and power wise...
Well,I went all the way to Rising Sun Performance (249miles each way) for the second time last weekend.First time I went to them a month ago I was let down by the car as the standard ECU in the car was found to have a Buddyclub chip in it and it had damaged the ECU so that it could not be read or mapped!
Anyway this time I had a new ECU with me and the mapping started straight away...until they started full power runs and discovered it was running very poorly and the graphs were all over the place.They spent hours lookin through everything and found the trouble to be a faulty CAS unit(cam angle sensor)
On examination it had been chewed up by the pin that drives it from the exhaust cam and the pin had actually snapped off the cam!!
The reason this had happened is that a gasket with spacers in it had been missed out when the engine had been assembled! This gasket should sit between the cambelt cover and the cas unit.Without it the cas was being forced towards the cam too much...
So they fitted a new exhaust cam and found yet another problem...the bottom pulley had no woodruff key!
Anyway after all this had been fixed and the engine was all back together they said it could be mapped, but not until the next day.So another night in a hotel...
The mapping was finished the next day and I have to say it drives much smoother and pulls much better...but there is another problem... the walbro(if it is a walbro) in the tank will not supply enough fuel for more than 1.2bar without making it run lean over 6000revs....So I am gonna need to pop a relay near the pump and uprate the power supply to the pump or change the pump.
Anyway it was not all bad news...it still made 350bhp at 0.7bar..........410bhp at 1bar...........450bhp at1.2bar but not taken over 6k revs.
So it will make a bit more, but I need to sort the pump to run more boost.
I have also fitted a very free flowing exhaust which gives a much deeper and slghtly louder note...
Total expenditure for the 2 days was £1,210...nice
Nice figures, but not a nice price
I have now hardwired my Walbro so should be up about 30BHP on previous best.(480bhp)
I had 10.7volts at the pump before I fitted the relay,and now have 13.9volts at the pump!
The pump now delivers approximately 40lph more fuel, and should stop it running lean at the top end when running 1.2bar or more
Was it running low on pressure before mate
40lph wont make any difference unless it was struggling for pressure as the fuel pressure regulator on the rail will just send it back to the tank
Rising Sun said enough fuel was not being delivered to the rail...so this should sort it mate...
Happy days.
Will you be getting another RR session or are you happy as it is?
Are you competing next year or are you still busy with the baby? Hows the baby doing aswell?
Doing the full BDC season next year,I will have all the safety crap fitted by then...
S13s' are not heavy cars-so it is stupid and ridiculously fast;when you can get the power down!
I will have the fueling checked on the next group rolling road session...
Heres some pics of those steelies on the back with 10mm slip on spacers. ET28 6.5j then i think. They look better then prefaces imo. Only pics i have sorry. The front are standard teardrops no spacers so you get an idea how they sit.
Get a thread up with your other car aswell! I wanna see what you do to it.
Sound Dave,Cheers
Well,as some of you seem to be interested I Will attempt to list some of the jobs I have done to my Drift car over the last few months...
PICS will have to wait for now,as I didn't take any at the time,so will have to,just show you the areas completed...
Adjusted and balanced the throttles as the RB26 runs individual throttle butterflies for each cylinder
Fitted adjustable front tension arms so I can get more castor on the front,so the wheel self centres harder,and allows for a little more lock without over-centering issues
Moved heads up display to on top of the dash as it's easier to see there(was in front of binnacle)
Welded front cross member and strengthened it,as it was torn on a track day by the steering forces and the rose-jointed tension arms
Fitted bolt on adjustable front spacers as the wingers are 30mm wider than standard and I need as wide as possible front track for front end grip etc
Fitted 3 different exhausts till I found one that I was happy with!!...first was too quiet,second was cheap twin box jobbie-but still too quiet,and third is single box 3.75 inch bore and actually makes it sound like a skyline-engined car should!!
Moved wiring up into the top of the wing as the wheel was catching it(it had rubbed right though and wires were fusing together) as the car is pretty damn low(for handling reasons)
Adjusted warnings on the Defi gauges so that I get warnings(audible and lights)for oil=>120degrees,water=>100 degrees,oil pressure=<1.5 bar
Adusted drivers and passenger seat angles and heights for ideal driving position
Made catch tank and filter for breather hoses to stop oil entering intake hoses
Fitted adjustable rear toe arms for 0 degress rear toe
Adjusted throttle stop as tickover was too high
Bypassed aac as idle was still to high...very common on RBs
Removed thermostat as engine temps get far too high when drifting!
Fitted the most powerful 12" fans that you can buy to aid cooling while drifting.My old fans(3 12" spal fans)were just not up to the job). These are Kenlowe very high output fans and are £115 each!!
Fitted revotec fan controller for one of the electric fans and wired in manual dash switch for the other fan
Fitted relays to the fans so wiring is protected and current to fans is stable
Flushed and blead entire cooling system and added water-wetter to aid cooling...no antifreeze as it raises temps
Removed unwanted DVD screens from sun visors and replaced with standard items
Balanced actuators on the turbos so boost is equal from each turbo
Fitted mini breather to intake hose were standard breather used to be
Fitted Tein up ratted rods and rod-ends and spacers to allow much mre lock than standard
Cut back steering bump stops to allow more steering angle availble from Tein/spaced rods
Fitted new steering boots
Adjusted coilovers to lowest that I can get away with and still actully drive the thing lol
Fitted new wheels(Rota GTR 18x9.5J) and internal drive wheelnuts
Aligned wings with bumper and headlights as they didn't sit correctly
Securred gauges in glove box so they faced driver and did not slide arround
Rewired stereo so speakers were in phase
Rewired cigar lighter as it was faulty
Realigned doors so they shut more easily
Removed half of the engine,sent it away to be polished and then refitted it lol
Set up electronic boost controller for maximum effeciency.Boost gain,scamble,warnings,displays etc etc
Fixed dodgy fuse holder for HIDs
Spaced antiroll bar so it doesn't tap the sump
Uprated engine mounts with bolts to go through them as well as welding
Removed half of the engine,sent it away to be polished and then refitted it
Removed fuel pump and replaced with new walbro and hardwired it
Removed binnicle to fix incorrectly set petrol gauge(used to run out at a quarter!
Fitted new gearknob and gaitor
Moved washer bottle wiring and repaired it as the wiring and tubing was worn through by the tyre hitting it
Moved various metal, under wheel arches, out of way of the tyres; as on full lock the tyres caught the body in about 8 different places
Cleaned the engine block of grease and tyre dust after every drift event
Bent the brackets back to shape(that hold the rear of bonnet)after the bonnet flipped back at a trackday
Fitted metal ducting under intercooler(welded and bolted in place)to supply more air to the radiator
Bend brackets back to shape, (after clipping a cone on a drift day)that hold bumper to inner arches
Fitted, then removed, rear fog light for MOT
Fitted front and rear private number plate that says my daughters' name!!
Refitted bumper side repeater lights as they used to remove themselves at anything over 150mph,or on really harsh bumps
Cleaned various parts under the bonnet and under the car after drift days,so that you could actually tell what they were!
Fitted snap-off spacer boss for steering wheel and wired up a horn button
Rewired alarm over-ride/check button to centre console
Fully serviced engine with Pro oil
Painted all brake calipers to a high standard(6-7hours)
Changed and blead all brake fluid
Adusted and serviced hand brake..essntial to get my BDC licence
Had car fully aligned(all adjustable arms) at DemonTweeks
Moved the boost controller to more accessible position
Replaced all spark plugs
Reset ECU
Set engine timing
Replaced inlet manifold gaskets
Replaced various silicone hoses
Cleaned/air-lined radiator and intercooler
Renewed allen key bolts to engine cover
Renewed allen key bolts to air cooling plate
Removed and re-aligned bonnet catch
Bled and cleaned through water feeds to turbos
Re-routed throttle cable and stop
Cleaned and greased all adjustable arms and rose joints
Re-fitted areas of flocked dash that were poor fitting
Adjusted coilovers for road use then for each individual drift event
Adjusted camber to suit each track
Repaired wiring under arch as it had been worn through again by tyre and then fitted protective metal plate
Fitted new rocker cover gaskets as old ones leaking(were cheap ones)
Undersealed exposed areas of bodywork
Tidy-ed up unwanted/messy wiring from under dash and engine bay
condensed the previous posts..
Well,as some of you seem to be interested I Will attempt to list some of the jobs I have done to my Drift car over the last few months...
PICS will have to wait for now,as I didn't take any at the time,so will have to,just show you the areas completed...
Adjusted and balanced the throttles as the RB26 runs individual throttle butterflies for each cylinder
Fitted adjustable front tension arms so I can get more castor on the front,so the wheel self centres harder,and allows for a little more lock without over-centering issues
Moved heads up display to on top of the dash as it's easier to see there(was in front of binnacle)
Welded front cross member and strengthened it,as it was torn on a track day by the steering forces and the rose-jointed tension arms
Fitted bolt on adjustable front spacers as the wingers are 30mm wider than standard and I need as wide as possible front track for front end grip etc
Fitted 3 different exhausts till I found one that I was happy with!!...first was too quiet,second was cheap twin box jobbie-but still too quiet,and third is single box 3.75 inch bore and actually makes it sound like a skyline-engined car should!!
Moved wiring up into the top of the wing as the wheel was catching it(it had rubbed right though and wires were fusing together) as the car is pretty damn low(for handling reasons)
Adjusted warnings on the Defi gauges so that I get warnings(audible and lights)for oil=>120degrees,water=>100 degrees,oil pressure=<1.5 bar
Adusted drivers and passenger seat angles and heights for ideal driving position
Made catch tank and filter for breather hoses to stop oil entering intake hoses
Fitted adjustable rear toe arms for 0 degress rear toe
Adjusted throttle stop as tickover was too high
Bypassed aac as idle was still to high...very common on RBs
Removed thermostat as engine temps get far too high when drifting!
Fitted the most powerful 12" fans that you can buy to aid cooling while drifting.My old fans(3 12" spal fans)were just not up to the job). These are Kenlowe very high output fans and are £115 each!!
Fitted revotec fan controller for one of the electric fans and wired in manual dash switch for the other fan
Fitted relays to the fans so wiring is protected and current to fans is stable
Flushed and blead entire cooling system and added water-wetter to aid cooling...no antifreeze as it raises temps
Removed unwanted DVD screens from sun visors and replaced with standard items
Balanced actuators on the turbos so boost is equal from each turbo
Fitted mini breather to intake hose were standard breather used to be
Fitted Tein up ratted rods and rod-ends and spacers to allow much mre lock than standard
Cut back steering bump stops to allow more steering angle availble from Tein/spaced rods
Fitted new steering boots
Adjusted coilovers to lowest that I can get away with and still actully drive the thing lol
Fitted new wheels(Rota GTR 18x9.5J) and internal drive wheelnuts
Aligned wings with bumper and headlights as they didn't sit correctly
Securred gauges in glove box so they faced driver and did not slide arround
Rewired stereo so speakers were in phase
Rewired cigar lighter as it was faulty
Realigned doors so they shut more easily
Removed half of the engine,sent it away to be polished and then refitted it lol
Set up electronic boost controller for maximum effeciency.Boost gain,scamble,warnings,displays etc etc
Fixed dodgy fuse holder for HIDs
Spaced antiroll bar so it doesn't tap the sump
Uprated engine mounts with bolts to go through them as well as welding
Removed half of the engine,sent it away to be polished and then refitted it
Removed fuel pump and replaced with new walbro and hardwired it
Removed binnicle to fix incorrectly set petrol gauge(used to run out at a quarter!
Fitted new gearknob and gaitor
Moved washer bottle wiring and repaired it as the wiring and tubing was worn through by the tyre hitting it
Moved various metal, under wheel arches, out of way of the tyres; as on full lock the tyres caught the body in about 8 different places
Cleaned the engine block of grease and tyre dust after every drift event
Bent the brackets back to shape(that hold the rear of bonnet)after the bonnet flipped back at a trackday
Fitted metal ducting under intercooler(welded and bolted in place)to supply more air to the radiator
Bend brackets back to shape, (after clipping a cone on a drift day)that hold bumper to inner arches
Fitted, then removed, rear fog light for MOT
Fitted front and rear private number plate that says my daughters' name!!
Refitted bumper side repeater lights as they used to remove themselves at anything over 150mph,or on really harsh bumps
Cleaned various parts under the bonnet and under the car after drift days,so that you could actually tell what they were!
Fitted snap-off spacer boss for steering wheel and wired up a horn button
Rewired alarm over-ride/check button to centre console
Fully serviced engine with Pro oil
Painted all brake calipers to a high standard(6-7hours)
Changed and blead all brake fluid
Adusted and serviced hand brake..essntial to get my BDC licence
Had car fully aligned(all adjustable arms) at DemonTweeks
Moved the boost controller to more accessible position
Replaced all spark plugs
Reset ECU
Set engine timing
Replaced inlet manifold gaskets
Replaced various silicone hoses
Cleaned/air-lined radiator and intercooler
Renewed allen key bolts to engine cover
Renewed allen key bolts to air cooling plate
Removed and re-aligned bonnet catch
Bled and cleaned through water feeds to turbos
Re-routed throttle cable and stop
Cleaned and greased all adjustable arms and rose joints
Re-fitted areas of flocked dash that were poor fitting
Adjusted coilovers for road use then for each individual drift event
Adjusted camber to suit each track
Repaired wiring under arch as it had been worn through again by tyre and then fitted protective metal plate
Fitted new rocker cover gaskets as old ones leaking(were cheap ones)
Undersealed exposed areas of bodywork
Tidy-ed up unwanted/messy wiring from under dash and engine bay
3rd Place, Well done
Bored so looked through my comp and found some skiddy vids Jones
Its towards the end of this vid you get some incar
http://www.vimeo.com/5343201and then 2 mins in here
http://www.vimeo.com/5338935
Deffo a tight fit
Is that cage a 200sx specific one, or a universal fit?
Looks like a Apex Performace Jobbie
Did they supply the foot plates also? Are they to MSA standards - dont forget they need to be welded to the floor to pass scruineering and do their job properly
Yeah its a apex jobbie stu
It passes all the fia regs but for the bdc championship it dosnt have to be welded bolted is fine.
Craig its mad for the s13 just sits very snug
I bought mine the same time but the fookers still havnt set it out
I thought FIA compliance was in line with the MSA...
Each mounting foot must be attached by at least three bolts (minimum M8 ISO grade 8.8) on a steel reinforcement plate at least 3mm thick and of at least 120cm2 area which is welded to the bodyshell
Just bolting the feet through the floor with some nuts and washers is going to do nothing in an accident - they will just rip through the floor of the car
Yeah very true but bdc isnt a fia reg sport yet
The plates will be enough
It does say to become fia reg cage plates and base plates should be welded in
The cages isnt for looks its for the regs nothing else matey
plus driftings a sport were shells get swapped alot so welding it all in is just a waste of a cage.
To rip the cage out form the thick plates the roll would need to be violent
Until bdc/edc/prodrift and drifting in itself becomes a fia registered sport this should be enough remember that drifting is mostly one car unless you are pro or win your class then its just 2 cars in the battle so contact somthing that happens alot or ever.
You dont actually weld the cage in mate - you just weld plates under the car and then drill / bolt through them and the floor. The floor is very thin and if there is any stress a nut / washer will just rip through the floor. Just bolting the cage in without these reinforcing plates is pretty useless as it will rip though in an accident and flex under stress so you wont get the full benifit.
...if your going to do it, do it properly...
IMO just bolting it in with nuts and washers is as just as good as fitting the cage for looks as the job hasnt been done properly
I know matey that you just weld the plates
have you ever tried buyin just plates from apex
I rolled both my stock cars one on tarmac and the other on shale (spelt wrong) and the cage in my mk2 escort was a bolt in the tarmac one was at 79mph which is a good peed to roll and that didnt rip out
if apex was a compony that wasnt such a cock to deal with i am sure we would both buy the base plates to weld in i asked when buying my cage and was told the plate match the cage which is a load of crap.
In the 7 years that bdc/edc and prodrift has been running nobody as yet has rolled but thats only cos i havnt entered
At the end of the day if the rules say do this you do it to what they say why go beyond the rules
You young boyo should come to a skid day by the way captian slow
You can make your own Foot Plates to weld the cage in.
Weve done it with both rallycars and our mates Track Fiesta (Wanted to do the Ford Racing Championship, but failed his race licence
)
The scrutineers were more than happy and satisfied with our wee efforts
Im really not trying to be funny about this Tony (and Chris). The FabriCage that came with the Silvia had plates, but they where not big enough, and just bolted on the the under side of the car.
I managed to scrounge a bit of 3mm thick steal, cut it to the right size with a grinder and got it welded on the underside of the car. Cost me nothing, had I had to pay for it, I recon it could have all been done less than £50.
...even if you dont
have to do it, can you put a price on safety, not something you can be too cautious with for the work and cost involved in fitting a comprehensive cage.
...and not got anything to skid with anymore
Good luck next year Chris - right chassis, and the good power engine should see you good
I know your not being funny ya nutter
Me and Chris dont have sponsor or friends who own a garage (no dig) so we have to try and do things to a budget which isnt easy we are both searching for a sponsor though if you know anybody.
I'd like my cage welded but just dont have the casho
And you can use my car anyways on a drifty day i recon it would help you if you ever go back to the proper drive
.
I might weld it as well...thing is if it was up to me I wouldn't fit a cage at all!... I don't plan on crashing; and it just weighs the car down!
I have been to 19 drift days with no cage and have not really seen the need for one...and before people think "they are just slow practices around an open field", these included twinning,80mph entry,solid concrete barriers and parked wagon trailers...
Quote from BDC rule book..
4 - Vehicle and Driver safety
4-1. Pro-Am cars must be fitted with a 4 point rear cage. This must include a diagonal bar
from above the driver's head down to the passenger side of the B pillar or lower section of the
passenger side rear brace bar.
Bolt-in or fully welded cages may be manufactured from
seamless T45 or cold drawn steel tubing.
Parts of roll cage within 150mm of occupants'
helmets must be fitted with fire resistant padding.
4-2. All cages regardless of material must have a main hoop (B pillar) from 45x2.5mm
or 50x2mm tube. 38x2.5mm or 42x2mm is permissible for all other parts of the cage’s
construction.
A 1mm manufacturing tolerance in tube sizes will be allowed.
4-3. Where used, all fasteners must be high tensile – ISO 8.8 or better and a minimum bolt
size of 8mm.
4-4. All roll cages must be either welded or bolted to the vehicle body using plates
that measure 5 square inches with a minimum 3mm thickness. For bolt-in cages a plate either
side of the vehicle body is also required. A minimum 3 bolts is required for the main hoop and
2 bolts for all other fixing points.