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#129327 - 1st Nov 2005 12:49pm 1.6zetec > 1.8zetec engineswap
scoop Offline
Wiki Addict

Registered: 18th Nov 2004
Posts: 7238
Loc: Leuchars
This sounds like what should be a helpful topic.

As im changing my engine soon. In the next 3 months if its as easy as im beggining to think it is,then im after some help to do it,not physical help as your over 3 hours away and i have mates up here who can undo bolts where i tell them to do so etc...

Im after a guide,as brief or as detailed as you guys can on pulling a 1.6 90PS ZETEC out of a 96 Escort and putting in a 1.8 115PS ZETEC from the same age/shape car

  • What do i need (toolwise and lifting apparatus)?
    What do i need (parts wise)?
    How long should it take?
    How many people are needed to do it?


As well as them i have some questions related to the 2 engines

  • Are the radiators different in size?
    Do the catalytic convertors end in the same place under the car?(so i can get a de-cat after the 1.8 manifold and mate it to the 1.6 mid section)(tempory as 1.8 exhaust is dead after the cat)
    Are the looms the same?
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#129328 - 1st Nov 2005 12:53pm Re: 1.6zetec > 1.8zetec engineswap
StuyMac Offline

Wiki Master

Registered: 24th Nov 2003
Posts: 12002
Loc: Wirralshire
...wheres Dazza wink
_________________________


What If There Were No Hypothetical Questions?

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#129329 - 1st Nov 2005 12:55pm Re: 1.6zetec > 1.8zetec engineswap
scoop Offline
Wiki Addict

Registered: 18th Nov 2004
Posts: 7238
Loc: Leuchars
I know he'll give me(us) all the info i(we) need so that as of next week we can all run bigger engines lol
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#129330 - 1st Nov 2005 12:59pm Re: 1.6zetec > 1.8zetec engineswap
Dazza Offline
Forum Master

Registered: 10th Nov 2003
Posts: 2899
Loc: Birkenhead
lol @ Stuymac
Scoop, I will write you a in-depth guide using my knowledge including what tools etc - It wont be pinched off any websites so may take awhile to write it for you, Am going out now so will do it 2nite smile
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#129331 - 1st Nov 2005 1:02pm Re: 1.6zetec > 1.8zetec engineswap
scoop Offline
Wiki Addict

Registered: 18th Nov 2004
Posts: 7238
Loc: Leuchars
Cheers bud.Off to leuchars now to a)fettle the white beast and b) reconnect the battery,ECU and MAF to the 1.8 and turn her over.See how shes doin
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#129332 - 1st Nov 2005 6:10pm Re: 1.6zetec > 1.8zetec engineswap
Meesh Offline
Forum Master

Registered: 26th Jul 2004
Posts: 3244
Loc: Neston, Wirral
engine changes...eugh *shudders*

never again

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#129333 - 1st Nov 2005 6:15pm Re: 1.6zetec > 1.8zetec engineswap
scoop Offline
Wiki Addict

Registered: 18th Nov 2004
Posts: 7238
Loc: Leuchars
LOL meesh. U were unlucky dude,didnt know the History of the 75BHP beast. U know u want to do it again
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#129334 - 1st Nov 2005 6:27pm Re: 1.6zetec > 1.8zetec engineswap
Meesh Offline
Forum Master

Registered: 26th Jul 2004
Posts: 3244
Loc: Neston, Wirral
not really lol

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#129335 - 1st Nov 2005 8:03pm Re: 1.6zetec > 1.8zetec engineswap
jimbo4x4 Offline
Forum Master

Registered: 3rd Mar 2004
Posts: 2912
Loc: Bebington
Quote:
Originally posted by Meesh:
engine changes...eugh *shudders*

never again
Love 'em laugh the one in the jeep's done so much for me, proved to be a fantastic choice. Ultimate aim for the civic is a B18 engine like Sanchez's, but not before I can afford the insurance lol.

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#129336 - 2nd Nov 2005 1:01am Re: 1.6zetec > 1.8zetec engineswap
Dazza Offline
Forum Master

Registered: 10th Nov 2003
Posts: 2899
Loc: Birkenhead
I am in the middle of writing this guide mate, It will be up v soon smile

Meesh, engine swaps are always worth while if done correctly with suitable engine/parts
_________________________
My website: www.TeamFord.co.uk

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#129337 - 2nd Nov 2005 2:32pm Re: 1.6zetec > 1.8zetec engineswap
Dazza Offline
Forum Master

Registered: 10th Nov 2003
Posts: 2899
Loc: Birkenhead
Ok its finished - Hardwork too!
Tools needed: Fullsocket sets and spanner sets
Mainly 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm

Start by removing/Disconnecting battery,
Remove front bumber – Headlights – Bonnet and grill for easy and to aid lighting,
Safely support car on axle stands and remove wheels,
Remove Bottomhose off radiator and drain the system (remove headercap to prevent a vacuum),
Remove Headertank and all coolent pipes connected to the engine (Located on the thermostat housing),
Remove Radiator (Check sensors listings),
Remove Airfilter and all ducting,
Remove startermotor – Held on woth three 13mm bolts but wiring is connect with two 10mm nuts and one 8mm nut,
Remove and drain the powersteering header,
Remove the downpipe from the exhaust manifold via two 18mm bolts,
Remove subframe by the four 19mm bolts (Tip – Exhaust lays above it),
Remove Brake servo pipe (Disconnect by pulling out of the brake servo, remember there’s a vacuum there),
On the back of the manifold there are two vacuum pipes remove but remember which way they go around,
Disconnect the fuel supply, two pipes located on the right of the inlet (Tip – Catch the
drips!),

Sensors Listings/Locations
Look around the enginebay and remove all plugs connected to the engine but the majority of them are located around the bulk and near gearbox – Below is a list of plugs/locations
MAF sensor – On airfilter/ducting
Throttle positive sensor – Left of the throttlebody (TB) opening
Oil pressure switch – On the back of the engine block a tiny thin wire
Injector rail plug – At the back of the engine underneath the manifold, by removing this you do not need to touch the injectorplug (Less chance of confusion)
Inlet plug – Located at the back of the inlet
Pulsecontrol unit – Right handside of the rockercover, The HT leads come out of it but also confused as a ‘coil’ pack or ignition pack
Heater plug – On top of the thermostat (Radiator top hoses comes out of the thermostat)
Crank position switch – On the front of the black closest to the gearbox
Radiator sensor – Lefthand side of the radiator
Reverse light sensor – On the front of the gearbox
Fan sender – Located on the fan

Suspension/Braking components:
Remove splitpin from driveshaft end in the hub and remove 30mm driveshaft nut (Tip – To stop the shaft spinning get somebody to press the brakes),
Remove pinchbolt from the wishbone it’s a 17mm and a torx40 once done use a balljoint splitter to ‘pop’ the balljoint out of the hub,
Remove the steering rack by removing the splitpin and undoing the 17mm nut then follow removal as above ^,
Push droveshaft threw the hub and remove from gearbox end via prising between the shaft and the box.


Gearbox removal
Remove the bellhousing bolts on the gearbox that connect it to the engine – They are 13mm and 15mm,
Remove the gearbox crable (two 19mm bolts either end)
Remove both front and back gearbox mounts,
Remove clutch cable and speedo cable from top of gearbox,
Prise gearbox inbetween that and the engine amd remove

Use enginelift to support the weight of the engine and undo the left hand enginemount (Its three 19mm bolts) and also remove the back enginemount (May only be on a fiesta),
Engine should be ready to lift out but check around once lifting that nothing is still connected especially around the bulkhead area.

Repeat in reverse order to complete – Obviously swap the required bits over
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My website: www.TeamFord.co.uk

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#129338 - 2nd Nov 2005 8:06pm Re: 1.6zetec > 1.8zetec engineswap
scoop Offline
Wiki Addict

Registered: 18th Nov 2004
Posts: 7238
Loc: Leuchars
Thats a mouthful. Though very helpful. Cud the engine and box come out as a oner?
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#129339 - 2nd Nov 2005 8:09pm Re: 1.6zetec > 1.8zetec engineswap
Dazza Offline
Forum Master

Registered: 10th Nov 2003
Posts: 2899
Loc: Birkenhead
Ideally no, its too big as one - Not hard to split it tho. Hope thats helpful cos it took me awhile to write it - had me scratching my head abit too with were the sensors were!
_________________________
My website: www.TeamFord.co.uk

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#129340 - 2nd Nov 2005 11:29pm Re: 1.6zetec > 1.8zetec engineswap
grizz Offline
Enthusiast

Registered: 21st Jul 2004
Posts: 140
Loc: neston
Why only a 1.8 ? what about a 2.0 as this is a much bigger bhp jump than a 1.6 -1.8 . grizz

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#129341 - 2nd Nov 2005 11:35pm Re: 1.6zetec > 1.8zetec engineswap
scoop Offline
Wiki Addict

Registered: 18th Nov 2004
Posts: 7238
Loc: Leuchars
Few reasons Grizzy dude. 1.8 Is cheaper to insure.I have a 1.8 in my possesion from a mate who spanked it up.I know how to modify the 1.8 to crucify the 2.0 and it doesnt involve many actual aftermarket parts.

1.8=115BHP
2.0=136BHP

1.8 can be modified to 130BHP for under 150 quid
1.8 can be taken to over 150BHP for less than 800

Dont know what you can get for the 2.0 with 800 quid but will it get it much more power than 800 quid on a 1.8

U can fit many Ford 2.0 parts on the 1.8 to make it run better,what can u fit to a 2.0 to make it more powerful from ford?u will have to go aftermarket.
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